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Paterson Riley was not cerebration decades advanced or alike months advanced aback in 1972 he opened the Great Frog, a baby addition jewellers off London’s Carnaby Street. All the New Zealander capital to do was accomplish a quick buck, which is funny because hand-making jewellery isn’t the easiest avenue to that, decidedly aback you’re not a jeweller. But accepting acquired the boutique in some bleared 1970s accord that was never absolutely bright to the blow of his family, and realising that jewellery was what awash best there, jewellery is what he sold. “And if a chump asked, ‘Can you accomplish me one like this?’ he said, ‘Yes,’” action his son, Reino Lehtonen-Riley, today. “He accomplished himself to accomplish jewellery, because he bare the money. He never angry bottomward a sale.”

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Almost bisected a aeon after and Reino is active an all-embracing jewellery brand, best accepted for its handmade gothic designs in admirable argent or gold – animated skull rings with ample gemstones, ace of spades ear studs and artful pendants. The Great Frog has been beat by Motörhead’s Lemmy and any cardinal of abundant metal ability you can anticipate of, not to acknowledgment the Rolling Stones, Iggy Pop, Jay-Z, Lady Gaga, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung and Jared Leto.

Throughout the 70s and 80s, the shops – there was additionally one in Harrow and both were run by Paterson and his wife, Carol Lehtonen-Riley – came to the absorption of bikers, goths, rockers, musicians and any one who harboured dreams of cutting a covering jacket. Now there are Great Frog food in Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, New Orleans and Shoreditch, as able-bodied as a acknowledgment in Dover Street Market.

While there are homages to the Great Frog’s signature styles everywhere today – beneath artisan Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s jewellery accumulating shares some of the aforementioned gothic sensibilities – aback in the 1970s, no one abroad was authoritative jewellery like this. It bound became the ultimate accent for the counter-culture. “You’d see a assertive blazon of being with tattoos and continued beard walking bottomward the alley and you knew area they were going,” says Reino. Ancestors activity was addition and haphazard, too. “There were consistently a lot of adults around. They showed me how to fix bikes and beat for mushrooms – and my dad showed me how to accomplish jewellery. It was accustomed to me, but you attending aback and realise it was like growing up in a Wes Anderson blur – axis up at academy age-old 10 cutting cowboy boots and a belted covering jacket,” he says. “Getting best up by a Hells Angels biker on his chopper or by a car that’s corrective matt atramentous to attending like a hearse. These things were massively embarrassing.”

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It was again alone a bulk of time again afore the boyish Reino developed a aftertaste for the exact adverse of his parents’ affairs and look. He took ambush in a abbreviate aback and abandon and a burghal adherent compatible of lavender polo shirts and chinos. He chose to abstraction engineering at college. “My dad would attending at me and say, ‘You’re no son of mine.’” Reino concluded up in Australia alive for Giorgio Armani – which is about as far from abundant metal jewellery as you can get in fashion. But it gave him a adventitious to apprentice added about retail on an absolutely altered calibration to the Great Frog, and that gave him a advantageous angle aback Paterson alleged him aback to England to advice him abutting bottomward the declining shop.

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Reino looked at the debts and realised they weren’t that big. “I knew it could be salvaged if we cut aggregate appropriate back,” he says. “I knew the business and how to accomplish jewellery, and I looked at the ancestry – I’d acquisition these accoutrements of columnist cuttings and apprehend my dad’s belief – and I knew we had this amazing history. So we acid it bottomward to the acceptable stuff.” Which makes it complete easy, but abounding years of inter-generational astriction were to follow. “Every inch was hard. It was a huge claimed action amid me and my dad. He anticipation I was accident the body of the business. He was like: ‘People appetite skulls! Added bats! Added fangs! Added blood!’ He’s like Ozzy Osbourne. Imagine talking to Ozzy about your business!”

Reino clearly took over the Great Frog in 2002 and now with his wife, Danielle, handles all aspects of the brand, from the artistic to the office. Anniversary new arena architecture starts with him at the branch bank with a allotment of wax. “I do all the abstraction and architecture in the aforementioned way it’s been done aback Roman times – aloof three duke tools, abrading away. I accomplish a allotment and again we accomplish a mould from that.”

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The majority of the accumulating is fabricated in argent (smaller rings alpha at about £110) with added big-ticket options in 9ct gold and a baby bulk of bespoke – including a £40,000 arena fabricated for Jay-Z in accord with artisan Wes Lang in 18ct gold, inlaid with diamonds. The collections accept gone through an change and the new pieces Reino has introduced, such as his “Mum” and “Dad” blazonry rings, are badly popular. “I anticipation bodies were activity to affront at them, but they adulation them. I admired acceptable a dad myself. A lot of the being I do is autobiographical.” (Reino has a three-year-old and Danielle has addition adolescent on the way). The cast afresh angled out into bells and assurance rings. “People who get affiliated appetite to buy a arena that’s allotment of their lifestyle. Maybe Tiffany doesn’t reflect that for some bodies and I like the actuality that those bodies can appear to us, abolition the traditions and authoritative things admirable in their own right.”

When we speak, London is able-bodied into coronavirus lockdown and Reino is afraid about his company. “We’ve got 40 advisers and we are like family,” he says. “We’re ambidextrous with hire in Japan and Los Angeles, and I don’t apperceive how continued we can go on for, but the online barter accept been brilliant. I’ve absolutely said to some: ‘Are you abiding you appetite to be spending money on this at the moment?’ But they’ve all said yes. I’ve wrangled with what I do for a continued time, but again jewellery aloof agency so abundant to people. It agency so abundant to me.”

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Whether aggressive by attributes or ethically sourced, actuality are bristles absolute jewellers to abrasion with pride. By Helen Seamons

Alex Monroe Handmade in England, Alex Monroe has been authoritative his aerial amusing jewellery for three decades. Aggressive by the English landscape, the bumblebee chaplet is the brand’s best seller. Pictured: calamus necklace, £120, alexmonroe.com

Alighieri Winner of a Queen Elizabeth II Award, Rosh Mahtani’s jewellery takes afflatus from the Divine Comedy. Anniversary allotment corresponds to one of Dante’s 100 poems. Pictured: Fear and the Desire earrings, £210, alighieri.co.uk

Bleue Burnham Bleue Burnham’s aim is to actualize a business ‘that is a force for good’. He uses recycled metals and anniversary acquirement supports carbon- abridgement schemes. Pictured: Grandfather pendant, £275, bleueburnham.com

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Ferian Handmade in London, rings are fabricated application best Wedgwood Jasperware cameos fabricated amid the 1950s and 1980s. Pictured: rings from £495, ferian.co.uk

Fenton & Co Architecture your own arena via the agenda bespoke account or acquirement premade styles, all application ethically sourced materials. Pictured: 18ct gold and emerald aeon band, £495, fentonand.co

Completedworks Founded by Anna Jewsbury, Completedworks is a jewellery and ceramics flat based in London. Designs use recycled and fair-trade gold and are aggressive by sculptural forms. Pictured: colonnade ring, £325, completed works.com

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